Day 17: Are we in the Basin yet?

Monday July 5

Boulder, WY to Atlantic City, WY

74.4 Miles, 4130 ft climbed, 1080.9 cumulative miles

Loaded down with almost 7 liters of water each, we pedaled on the flat straight paved road out of Boulder, WY, listening to the cows moooooo us goodbye. Pretty soon we came across the end of county maintained road sign and then end of pavement sign. We enjoyed fast miles under overcast skies on rolling hills. We’d get enough speed on the downhill to propel us up the next roller on glory dirt - hard-packed dirt and gravel that was as fast as pavement. 50 miles were behind us by noon. Fence lines and cattle guards disappeared soon as well. 

There was mutual excitement when we saw a northbound rider, Bill. We exchanged trail notes, conditions and recommendations. Once he learned that we were also planning to stay that night at Wild Bill’s B&B, he raved about the food and rest of the accommodations. He was traveling solo and 29 days on the road. 

The afternoon sun came out and we could no longer propel ourselves up the rollers, now expending lots of energy climbing up. We enjoyed wind in our back for most of the morning until our direction changed and we started fighting headwind. 

We rode into the tiny historic town of South Pass, now with population of 4 permanent residents, and straight to the museum gift shop selling cold beverages and ice cream. Although we were only 4 miles outside of Atlantic City, there was no question that we were stopping. And there was a southbound great divide couple doing the same thing as us! 

The last few hills into town hurt more than they should have. We found Bill’s place, ending our 74 mile day at 3:30 pm, and got a tour of our accommodations followed by showers and laundry only to discover that both establishments in town with food and beverages were closed. The owner generously hooked us up with pizza, salad, lemonade and homemade cherry pie with ice cream. 

Now as we lay in bed in our little cabin, laundry drying above us, hanging on a cord strung across the room, we are listening to kids race their ATVs back and forth on the dirt street. 

Published July 6, 2021